We went to Kyoto yesterday which is about 300 miles away. No real differentiation between towns, a few paddy filds and the odd tea plantation but Tokyo in effect stretches all the way to Kyoto!. One mass of urban development all the way. But no graffiti in that all distance, not one wall defaced not one train, not one poster, not one protest. But it doesn't stop there; not one piece of litter, not one piece of chewing gum, not one drunk, not one voice raised, not one blue flashing light, not one vending machine that doesn't work (and there is a drinks machine on most street corners) not one spilt cup of coffee, not one person begging, not an angry word, not one voice raised in dissent. (And not one train late!) Such is the Japanese culture. So today we are completing our journey by going off the beaten track on our branch line ride to Iida.
0840 Shinkensen from our nearby station of Shinagowa in Tokyo's suburb to Toyiashi, a distance of about 180 miles where we change to a local train. A word about the Shinkansen (or bullet train). These trains started to be introduced from the early 1960s but now cover most of Japan. With new infrastructure (track) to run on they cruise at around 180 mph and are very popular. So popular that Shinagowa sees a departure of one of these 16 coach trains carrying, must be up to, 1 000 people each every 10 minutes or so. The trains are very clean and have comfortable, large seats usually facing the direction of travel. One slightly amusing feature is that before each station they play a little tune which is very similar but not quite "God Save the Queen" the UK national anthem!. Leg room is ample with about 18 "between the bend in my knee and the seat in front. On entering the train you are given a wet towel to wipe your hands and face by a Japanese lady who bows before entering the coach then your ticket is inspected by an inspector, who also bows when entering the coach and when handing your ticket back. A little later you are usually offered a drink (tea Coffee etc) and a snack. I understand there are 20 staff on each Shinkansen
0840 Shinkensen from our nearby station of Shinagowa in Tokyo's suburb to Toyiashi, a distance of about 180 miles where we change to a local train. A word about the Shinkansen (or bullet train). These trains started to be introduced from the early 1960s but now cover most of Japan. With new infrastructure (track) to run on they cruise at around 180 mph and are very popular. So popular that Shinagowa sees a departure of one of these 16 coach trains carrying, must be up to, 1 000 people each every 10 minutes or so. The trains are very clean and have comfortable, large seats usually facing the direction of travel. One slightly amusing feature is that before each station they play a little tune which is very similar but not quite "God Save the Queen" the UK national anthem!. Leg room is ample with about 18 "between the bend in my knee and the seat in front. On entering the train you are given a wet towel to wipe your hands and face by a Japanese lady who bows before entering the coach then your ticket is inspected by an inspector, who also bows when entering the coach and when handing your ticket back. A little later you are usually offered a drink (tea Coffee etc) and a snack. I understand there are 20 staff on each Shinkansen
So we change trains at Toyiashi onto our local train. A spotless 3 car train. All the seats face the
direction of travel and they are turned around at the terminus so you always face the way you are
going. The picture is of standard class.
Today being Saturday there were one or two Japanese groups out for a ride in the hills. We set off on
time and were soon rattling along in fine style. You are able to sit behind the driver and observe the line ahead. The driver, like all Japanese train drivers, is smartly dressed and wears white gloves. Every time we pass a signal he points to the signal as reminder to himself that he has looked at it. At every
station or timing point he points to the station name board then to his timetable which is pinned up in front of him to check he is keeping to time. He is assisted in this by having a magnetic strip (bit like a magnetic ruler) which he moves down his timetable schedule as the trip progresses.
When riding on the Shinkansen bulletin train you rarely leave built up areas and are often travelling on concrete viaducts or in cuttings. This little train was different as it was travelling over part of the original Japanese network which seemed to pass right by the gardens of houses with numerous level crossings giving the impression of travelling through the heart of the town. Pretty soon the houses start to give way to fields. Some paddy fields and some tea plantations. The houses of the gardens all have large vegetable plots with potato and onion much in evidence.
We now enter a river valley and start to climb into the mountains. For the first time since coming to Japan we have shaken of the houses and civilisation.
The valley broadens and the train starts to empty as we stop at wayside stations until after two and a half hours we come to Iida. Quite a large town sitting in the sun in a broad valley.
No westerners here but a sign with "welcome" in all languages looks promising. Nice sleepy town but no other western signs.
So we decide to find somewhere to eat. Japanese restaurants are a bit impenetrable from the outside. If you are luck there will be an illustrated menu outside. That seemed to only occur to a limited extent here. So we had to be brave. Of course on entering everyone from the kitchen staff to the waitresses greet you. Wet towel and tea are placed before you as a matter of course. Then comes the menu challenge! I tried to say "what would you recommend" but didn't get far . Then Joanne took the waitress outside and showed her a picture of food in the window but that didn't seem to do the trick (perhaps it was a picture for the restaurant next door!) the waitress disapeared and came back with some noodles and some broth (this was nothing like Wagumammas in the UK!) she then gave us some forks. All much to the amusement of the locals who were in there. Then the chef came over, who seemed to speak a little English . He then showed how they dilute the remains of the meals contents in the Water and drink it. I Have to say it was all very delicious and the Japanese are such delightful, courteous people they were very patient with us.
We the returned to the station and had a delightful ice cream from the vending machine while we sat in the sun. It had been a truly excellent "Rural ride to Iida."!
And that now finishes my blogs of this trip. It is Sunday morning and we are going up into Tokyo. Tomorrow Joanne is off home and I am meeting Hitachi with Karen from East Coast for part two of this adventure. I have struggled a bit with the blog in places as for some reason capital letters keep appearing and word order changing so when I get home will go through it, add some more
photos and maybe flesh out some of the descriptions. Anyway, thanks for reading our "Rural ride to
Iida "
The railroad track is miles away
And the day is loud with voices speaking
There isn't a train goes by all day
But I hear it's whistle shrieking
My heart is warm with friends I'll make
And better friends I will not be knowing
But there isn't a train I wouldn't take
No matter where it's going
Edna St. Vincent Millay






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